Gonna build a Flying Mile bike

Got it in one mate. More evidence that it's a race engine. What about the last piccy?

 

Is that a flattened cam lobe to keep the valve open longer?

 

No mate, good try though. The later model GSX1100EFE has an electronic tacho and is not driven by the exhaust cam like the ET. EFE cams also have more lift than ET cams.

 

Well not much progress recently, too much DIY to do! Anyway, I received a parcel this morning:


Can you guess what it is yet???
Couldn't wait to get rid of the packaging . Here it is, made to fit a GSXR1100 Slabby dragbike.

And next to a stock Bandit 1200 arm. 10" longer than a stock arm

Had to widen the frame a bit to fit it in. Will be making correct size top hat spacers to fit the stock bearings.


Fitted swingarm spindle and arm into modded frame and tried a spare 17" by 6" Triumph wheel, with 200mm tyre, that I happened to have lying around. Won't be using this combo though!


Only managed to lower the front end about 3/4", should be about 6" lower eventually.

 

Could you not dump the forks right through and switch to using clip-ons instead? Looking good dude!

 

Good idea mate. I do have a tie down strap for this purpose, which will stiffen the preload as well as lowering the front end.

 

Thanks Paul. Just mocked up for now. Need to make bearing spacers, make and weld lower shock mounts and reweld the swingarm braces. Still a long way to go.

 

My wonderful wife overheard a conversation about my racebike. I have been offered a free paintjob and want it in it's original Deuce colours, as raced in Pro Stock by Pip Higham. She ran upstairs and found a copy of Superbike magazine from December 1980.Hopefully here is the front cover;

 

Do You get the girl as well!!

 

There are more pix of the model, with less clothes on!

 

In that case, we look forward to seeing the pics of the remainder of the restoration

 

Well it was raining all day today , so I completed a job on Mike Ikkari's carbs and then started work on the racebike cylinder head.
Gave it a quick clean with a plastic fibre wheel in my drill.

Cleaned up the exhaust threads.
Then before I removed the valves, I thought I'd check how well sealed to the head they already were. I poured paraffin into the inlet and then exhaust ports and then checked the combustion chambers. No paraffin at all.




I removed the paraffin and then thought I'd have a look at the valve seats anyway. I found the valve spring compressor that I'd bought 30 years ago to work on my original sprint bike.



Sure enough, the valves had recently been lapped to the head. Saving me a normally laborious job.



With the inlet valves out, I felt around the area where the valve seats meet the head and there was a ridge on both valve ports.
I set up my Dremel type tool with it's flexible drive and ground the seal and head until there was no step all around it.








Was going to clean up the casting marks in the inlet ports , but it's already been done!



I know I should grind the tops off the valve guides and blend them to the head, but I'm not that skilled with the grinding tools and I don't wanna risk doing any damage.

 

I've heard you shouldn't remove the tops of the valve guides completely as they help dispel the heat from the valves themselves....

 

May be true on a roadbike or trackbike mate, but not sure about a drag/flying mile bike. My dragbike had them ground down to the head for better gas flow with no problems. Ill ask some of the flying mile guys anyway.

 

I have to admit I didn't understand at least 90 percent of what you are saying.

But you do seem excited by it, so YEAH ALAN!!

 

Just had an eMail from Pendine Landspeed Racers Club. My entry has been acceped. I'm in!

 

U shud go and practice at camber sands when the tide is out...

 

Last time I do something for you Gareth. I'm not suicidal ya know