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Fork Oil Problem For the Mechanical Wizzies Out There!

Discussion in 'Mechanical' started by Jim, Aug 12, 2011.

  1. deano81

    deano81 Secret prototype +

    Messages:
    1,348
    il burn it to cd btw as its 60mb , and you can have a copy next time i see you, which will prob be wed 17th
     
    Jim likes this.
  2. Jim

    Jim Race Rep +

    Messages:
    661
    Alford Bros Suzuki Dealer at Folkstone have suggested I just add more oil until it reaches the measured amount from the top of the tube so perhaps I'll try this.
     
  3. Skortchio

    Skortchio Caustic +

    Messages:
    2,035
    What, you mean exactly what I said! :sfight:
     
    Sporty1200 likes this.
  4. Jim

    Jim Race Rep +

    Messages:
    661
  5. Jim

    Jim Race Rep +

    Messages:
    661
    Here's a response from one of the guys on the GS Forum

    "After filling it with the correct amount of 10W oil (377ml) and pumping the leg a few times, leave it undisturbed for 5 mins sitting vertical with the leg fully compressed to settle. Then measure it. If it is waaaay low, i.e the measured distance from the top of the leg to the oil level is far greater than spec, the damper check valve(piston ring and cylinder sleeve) is worn and the oil has drained back into the lower leg. Most likely the problem you have is a worn piston ring on the end of the damper rod. This won't affect the fork too much when moving the stanchion slowly, like when you are setting it up, but when under tension, the piston ring will easily make enough of a seal to hold all the oil in the upper chamber, at least initially. If there's too much oil in the fork, the suspension will be non existant, the leg will suffer hydraulic lock and be stiff like a solid rod.

    If the stanchions are in really good condition, i.e no pitting whatsoever in the travel area, strip the forks down properly and replace the damper rod piston ring, cylinder sleeve and rebound spring and the lower and upper teflon coated bushes as well as the oil and dust seals, and don't forget to replace the damper rod bolt seal when you rebuild it. If there is any pitting within the travel area, it's time for new stanchions as well before you start.
    Also, only use original Suzuki oil seals, otherwise you'll be replacing them again in 8 weeks time.

    Here's the original Suzuki part numbers for the bits you likely need, but check with the dealer for any updates:

    Cylinders: 51146-01D00
    Piston rings: 51196-13A10
    Rebound springs: 51177-01D00
    Lower bushes: 51121-01D00
    Upper bushes: 51167-01D00
    Damper rod seal: 51148-41310
    Oil seal: 51153-01D00
    Dust seal: 51173-01D00 "
    __________________
    OH DEAR! :cry:
     
  6. megawatt

    megawatt World Superbike +

    Messages:
    5,039
    I would put the 377cc in and measure compressed and fully stretched, with and without spring in. All the ones I have ever done were with the spring in???
     

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