Tyre Cracks

No worries, glad to be of assistance.

1 word on your choice of rear tyre, a wider tyre will slow the bikes turn in speed reducing the sharp handling.
The other consideration is the shape it will sit on the rim, a larger hoop will sit higher than your current as a result of more rubber being squashed into the same space, this will give a smaller contact patch, increase tyre flex and alter the geometry slightly - at least for a few hundred miles until it wears

Okay that was 2 words, does look cool though. Fitted a 190 to a gixxer 6 years back, handled like a bus (wasn't much better with the right size tyre in fairness though )

 

Yeah on another forum i know people who have put 150's on the rear tire with the stock rim and they haven't found it to be bad from what they've said but i dont want to go THAT big on the stock rim (not that thats a big size but on my bike... thats like a tractor tire )

so because it will sit higher does that mean i get a taller bike ? and i'll be sure to ride a few couple hundred miles before i start having real fun on her

Wow... now me upgrading to a 140 doesnt seem such a big thing

 

Haha! What will happen (when new) is the rear wi be slightly ballooned causing the rear to sit higher and making the geometry front bias, this will manifest in sharper turn in steering but uneven tracking through the corner as the rear tyre has excessive torsional force exerted upon it, it will distort (all tyres do bit more so in this case) shifting the contact area and creating a false track, making the rear try and take a different line to the front, you'll feel this mid turn as a reluctence of the bike to want to commit and hold the chosen line. On a high powered bike you'd then experience squirm on exit as you give it the beans and the rear twists around like a curley wurly under the multi directional forces.

That's what a guy in the pub told me anyway

 

best quote of the day 'the rear twists around like a curley wurly under the multi directional forces' I think before i change my tires then like on the way to the shop ill take a diversion and hit the twisties one last time before i get the new tire and have to wait for it to sort its self out... its a bit weird... but im sort of looking foward to going through the experience of getting new tires... i can guarantee i wont be saying this when i get them and have to ride carefully till they're warn it... but yeah first time for everything and this is one of those!

 

New tyres are like clean sheets, that wonderful crisp feeling that's all too soon lost in the crumbs and crumpled of restless nights..
What you have to remember is that you're not going to be riding the different sizes in equal condition, given the age of your current ones you'll no doubt love the new ones and they'll carve bends way better too!

The days of scrubbing in tyres are almost past, mould release compounds aren't greasy like 10 years ago, unless its raining then a few roundabouts will be plenty to get cracking!

 

Yeah these bridgestone seem to be really well designed they're made of two compounds a soft compound on the out side and a hard one in the middle to make them last longer i guess and stick better in the corners which is what i want. after next week when im back from my driving course i'll go down 1066 motorcycles near parker road and see how much they'll be to buy and fit from them

Good to know that about the tires and scrubbing as well

 

You might find it's cheaper to buy online and get a local friendly garage to throw them on, even more so if you take the wheels off the bike and take them along loose.

FWR.co.uk used to be good for prices.

 

Yeah i've looked online will go down the shop and see what prices are, i did think about taking the wheel's off but dont you have to balance the wheel or something?

 

Balancing is done off the bike anyway, plus you don't technically need the rear balanced as it's under uneven load anyway (chain being on one side only).

 

I have heard many times that 'nowdays new rubber doesn't need scrubbing' in but the fitters (i had new pair 1 month ago ) still urge safety and a 50 - 100 miles scrub in period. Personally i think the first 15 are crucial and then ill take 50 miles relatively slowly then start to increase my speed/leaning up to normal usage.

 

So would it literally just be case of taking the wheels of and taking them down then? and then putting them back one when the tires are done? might have to do this if its that the case. is there anything i should be careful of or do different with paddock stands like extra support of anything?

And Yeah ill still do a 50-100 mile scrub in as well just to put piece at mind, its only 100 miles so ill just ride up and down the marsh road a good few times till its done

 

Loosen bolts n nuts before putting bike on stands. Try to support front with extra jack or support from garage roof timber. Make sure you replace wheel spacers on correct sides. Check wheel bearings while off bike and replace if any notchiness or clicking. When riding for first time, avoid going out in the wet , get tyres warm in the dry and gradually lean the bike over more in corners until most of the surface of the tyres have been in contact with the road. Take it steady for first 50-100 miles and gradually increase speed and lean angle. If any doubt with wheel bearings gimme a shout?

 

As Mega says, crack the wheel nuts before lifting the bike onto the stand to minimise the yanking about while it's up there, then lift it onto the stands. If your front fork has pinch bolts at the bottom then loosen the nut side ones before trying to undo it . Make a note of which rear spacer goes on which side.

I'd not suggest trying to add extra supports myself, if you consider that axle / paddock stands work on the principle the weight is centerally positioned over them to keep the bike in position, adding another point of brace lessens their effectiveness.
If your front stand is a cup type one (fits under the fork bottoms), they can be a bit nervous unless you get them dead straight.

Once the bike it up, rear nut comes off, and slacken the chain adjusters off. Then remove the spindle while supporting the wheel, unhook the chain / brake carrier and remove.

Front wheel is much the same but you may find you need to remove the calipers from the fork to allow the rim to drop. If you have them, loosen the other pinch bolts on the spindle side and remove it, catching the wheel at the same time .

Reassembly is the reverse, remembering to set the correct chain slack (25-30mm unladen) before tightening the rear axle.

 

Where abouts should i put the jack? what the only place i can really think of it under where the oil filter goes with a bit of wood in between so it doesnt get damaged as i dont have a garage so it will be all done outside, thanks for that alan will give you a hout if problems

 

I was going to buy this paddock stand as i dont have one and im currently borrowing one but this has another method to attatch it to the front which isnt the cups http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycl...51?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3f178d6adf Think i may give this ago instead of taking it down the shop will be good to learn how to do it and everything

 

Just checked, you don't have pinch bolts to worry about.

 

That's fine for the rear, aye. They're pretty much all the same.
Front cup stands are okay, but the type which lifts from the headstock are more secure:


If you have to jack the front, the exhaust pipework is your best bet. With a block of wood to even the load if needed. Don't ever jack on the oil filter or it's housing. Solid bits only

 

That looks much better than the one i found actually, i had another look at the link i found and i cant even think of were they hook onto :s Only think with the one that lifts it with the head stock is that thats all it does would be good if i could get one that does front and back, a while ago i tried using the cups and it made the bike nearly slide off due to the angle.

 

Just back from Eastbourne Tyre Centre....bloody brilliant service down there. Can't recommend them highly enough. Double checked my tyre size and pricing and they were competitive.
On Fort Road, just off Seaside 01323 720222

 

Thanks for that, do you know if they can do it while you wait? and how much it was not including the actual tires like for fitting? Thanks for the number as well